Madrid with a dog: cafés that actually let you in

Madrid has changed a lot in five years. Walking into a café with a dog is no longer an awkward negotiation — in many spots they bring the water bowl before the menu. This is my favourite route through Malasaña and Chueca.

I always start at HanSo Café (Pez 20). Specialty coffee, low tables and staff who know me by name. From there we head down to Toma Café 2, where the terrace is wide and the dog cookies are homemade.

For a long brunch, Federal Café in Conde Duque is unbeatable: high ceilings, fresh water without asking, and they allow dogs inside outside peak hours.

In Chueca the king is Bendito Café — tiny but with soul. If we're in a rush we stop at Acid Café (dogs allowed inside too) and walk to Plaza de Pedro Zerolo to catch the sun.

Golden tip: always carry a small rolled-up blanket in your backpack. It turns any terrace floor into a safe spot for your dog and the waiters notice.